Dominique Alves Da Silva

Citimarks: Dominique, what were your first impressions of Naples?

Dominique Alves Da Silva: My family and I relocated from Brazil to Italy when I was a child, and I was immediately captivated by the aesthetics of Naples. The first striking feature I noticed were the buildings—magnificent baroque palazzos that I couldn't compare to anything I had seen back home. In Naples, I experienced what it means to live in a city with a profound sense of history. I also delved into the local mentality and lifestyle, which, in my opinion, is unparalleled. Neapolitans embody a combination of a generous heart and an opportunistic, astute spirit. They navigate their lives under a timeless shadow of contrasts, making them authentic and inherently likable.

What would you say are the main traits of the Neapolitan character?

Neapolitans are renowned for their sharp wit and sarcasm, possessing a strong sense of irony that infuses their humor with a biting edge. They take delight in making wisecracks that often target one's weaknesses or failures. Additionally, Neapolitans are known for their resourcefulness and a keen eye for seizing new opportunities. If the need arises to fabricate a story, they won't hesitate—this city is home to many cunning individuals with more than one trick up their sleeves! However, beneath their shrewd exterior, Neapolitans harbor a generous heart, especially when it comes to helping those in need—be it a friend, a relative, or even a neighbor.

Are they still as religious as we are reading in history books?

In Naples, every child undergoes the sacrament of christening. However, as they mature, many may not feel as connected to religion as their parents may have hoped. Despite this, social scrutiny in Naples can be quite oppressive, particularly concerning one's ties to the church. Consequently, a significant number of individuals conceal their true feelings, attending religious events not out of personal conviction but rather out of respect for their families and local communities. This often serves as a strategy to avoid confrontations on a topic that is challenging to dispute in this close-knit community.

"Naples is a vibrant city teeming with eccentricities and events unfolding in a bewildering and disorderly manner. It is a realm of paradoxes, the unusual, the topsy-turvy, and the surreal."

Is the family still playing a major role in their life?

A fundamental role, indeed. For Neapolitans, the ties to home are unbreakable. Even as adults with families of their own, they see no reason to be far from their parents. A case in point is my own experience: when I moved in with my stepdad as a child, it was to his parents' house that we relocated. The same holds true for his sister, who lives in a flat right across from my grandparents. This close proximity provides an environment where families have a tendency to intervene in important decisions made by their sons or daughters. However, the younger generations are showing a trend towards greater independence. When they do decide to leave the nest, it is often to explore the world and, in some cases, to settle abroad.

Neapolitans are some of the most superstitious people I have met. Travelers from across generations have noticed the same thing.

Neapolitans are undeniably superstitious, placing great faith in the whims of luck and believing they can influence it. A favorite pastime for many is engaging in luck-based games like Tombola or Lotto (Lottery). To enhance their chances, they turn to the enduring popularity of "Smorfia," a Naples-born invention. Smorfia is a kind of manual that "translates" dreams into lottery numbers. According to Smorfia, if a player dreams of their hometown, they should bet on number 1; dreaming of a naked woman suggests playing number 21. A dream inducing fear corresponds to number 90, and so on. This system can be applied to various games and competitions, ranging from horse races to football. Rooted in ancient pagan beliefs still thriving in Naples, playing these luck-based games becomes a form of daydreaming—a hopeful escape from the challenges of everyday life.

Travel writers have also noticed a liking for music. Is it something still relevant today?

Music holds a profound significance for Neapolitans, serving as a major medium of expression. In Naples, it predates other art forms such as painting or architecture. Scholarly music has its roots in the renowned Neapolitan Opera, but alongside it thrives a culture of everyday music. This includes impromptu singalongs around a dinner table or the subtle singing of a song in the middle of the street. These spontaneous forms of expression often act as conversation starters, helping Neapolitans forge connections and deepen bonds. Festivities, parades, flash mobs, or any street activities are especially popular among the younger generations, further highlighting the enduring role of music in the vibrant culture of Naples.

"If Neapolitans decide to fabricate a story, they won't hesitate; this town is full of cunning individuals with more than one trick up their sleeves! However, beneath their shrewd exterior, they are generous when it comes to helping those in need—be it a friend, a relative, or a neighbor."

Today, where do you live in Naples?

I reside on Vomero Hill, a tranquil and residential area of Naples. Many of the residents have called this place home for numerous years, fostering a close-knit community where everyone knows each other. This familiarity creates a sense of coziness and security, akin to the atmosphere of a small village. The neighborhood itself is visually enchanting, adorned with parks and lush squares that contribute to the overall beauty of the surroundings.

Has the city changed in the past, say fifteen years?

Certainly, the attitude towards public property in Naples has undergone positive changes. There's a noticeable improvement in the state of walls and surfaces, with fewer tags and posters compared to twenty years ago. In the past, there was a growing trend of vandalism that has since been curbed. The persistent efforts of the mayor's cleaners to erase tags day in and day out may have contributed to this shift, as people likely grew tired of repeatedly retagging. Additionally, the rise of murals and the recognition of artists like Jorid may have instilled a sense of respect for their work, discouraging individuals from painting over these beautiful creations of art.

What do you think of the Neapolitan street art?

Ten years ago Bansky created his fist Italian work in Naples featuring a praying Madonna haloed by a gun. This piece was a direct critique of the hypocrisy of taking a human life and then seeking solace in prayer—a behavior prevalent in local gangs. At the time, it seemed unlikely for a local artist to use such a sacred symbol in Naples and associate it with human cruelty. Banksy's bold move paved the way for a new generation of artists to satirize, through their works, the city's chronic issues, the cynicism of the political system, and the tolerance towards the Camorra, the local mafia. The walls of Naples have become a canvas for changing the way social debates are conducted.

If you had to leave Naples, what would you miss the most?

The food, without a doubt, is a highlight—especially the pasta. Nowhere else have I tasted a pasta dish as flavorful as in Naples. The region boasts some of the world’s finest tomatoes for crafting the sauce, along with the highest-quality olive oil, and more. The local expertise and the quality of ingredients elevate Neapolitan dishes to an exquisite level of taste. Is my enthusiasm too biased?