citinotes
Matisse’s garden

One of the reasons I hold an affection for the city of Nice is its close connection to the natural elements. In just a couple of hours, I can seamlessly transition between three diverse landscapes: I can begin my day with a stroll along the sandy beach of the Promenade des Anglais, feeling the sand tickle my toes; embark on a brief hike up to the panoramic cliff of Colline du Château, where the Provençal scents of cypress trees envelop me, all while maintaining a breathtaking view of Nice; then descend into the old city, losing myself in its shaded, winding alleys, where the mistral’s whistle mingles with the voices of the grocers. In Nice, one is never too far from the sea.
And if the salty breeze and the robust winds of the Mediterranean fail to stimulate my senses, I patiently await the sunset. I ascend to the eastern tip of the Bay of Angels, right beside the renowned #ILoveNice installation. The panoramic view from this spot over the bay and the city of Nice is simply phenomenal. On a clear day, during the blue hour, I revel in a symphony of colors, shades, and textures. My gaze fixates on the undulating waves as they caress the smooth sand. My thoughts scatter amidst the endless, multicolored reflections of neon lights dancing on the sea surface. A continuous line of streetlights, stretching along the elongated curve of the Promenade des Anglais, brings to mind Ingres’ Odalisque. Above in the sky, a rainbow of hues—royal blues, carmine reds, baby pinks, and plum purples—paints a mesmerizing picture.

Citinotes
chapter 1
An irresistible blue
In this place, beneath the warm blue December sky, the climate is gentle; winter dons a robe of sunrays, a magical, fairylike blossoming persists, and above all… the sea; a sea serenading us with its enchanted lullaby. Everything here whispers, “Fall asleep; nothing is worth the pain of nothing; let yourself die, let yourself live!” Who can describe the irresistible allure of the Mediterranean Sea, barely rippled by the wind in tiny undulating folds like the airy tunic of a sleeping nymph? Along the coast, the sea, wrapped in Azure and lapis lazuli, surrenders under the soft blue sky; farther away, it bathes in splendid darkness. Whether near or far, these delightful blue waters remain serene and relentlessly joyful, oblivious to the melancholy that may afflict us. […]
This ineffable blue envelops everything: in front of me, around me, in the distance, in the infinite horizon; somewhere within its depths, an abyss of burning light opens up, like a blazing sheet, like a lake of molten gold submerged in an azure devoured by its radiant flames. […] It seeks nothing reminiscent of the human condition:
It is the azure sea of the gods, crafted to carry the Venuses and the Amphitrites with hands that caress garlands and bouquets of stars.
At times, a small white boat drifts through the tranquil waves, akin to an Aphrodite’s dove seeking refuge in the bosque of Cyprus […]
In the midst of a swell in celestial blue, it appears as if a few verdant islands, bathed in light, beckon the weary wanderer, whispering, “Come to us, forget all the rest; we have never known anything but rest, bliss, silence, peace, and love chats of the night under groves of perfume and shade.”
Théodore de Banville,
La mer de Nice – Lettres à un ami, Poulet-Malassis et De Broise, 1865

The iconic blue chairs adorn the Promenade des Anglais in Nice.

The fabulous colors of the Niçois sky in the blue hour, at the Promenade des Anglais.


Port Lympia, the harbor of Nice.
chapter 2
Color explosion
Nice, February 12, 1888.
DEAR FRIEND:
It has not been a “proud silence” that has sealed my lips to everyone all this time, but rather the humble silence of a sufferer who was ashamed of betraying the extent of his pain. When an animal is ill it crawls into its cave -so does la bete philosophe. […] In these circumstances one has to live at Nice (sic). This season it is again full of idlers, grecs and other philosophers -it is full of my like. And, with his own peculiar cynicism, God allows his sun to shine more brightly on us than on the more respectable Europe of Herr von Bismarck […]
The days seem to dawn here with unblushing beauty; never have we had a more beautiful winter. How I should like to send you some of the coloring of Nice! It is all besprinkled with a glittering silver grey; intellectual, highly intellectual coloring; free from every vestige of the brutal ground tone. The advantage of this small stretch of coast between Alassio and Nice is the suggestion of Africa in the colouring, the vegetation, and the dryness of the air. This is not to be found in other parts of Europe.
Friedrich Nietzsche,
Letter to Seydlitz in Selected Letters, 1909, translated by Anthony Ludovici, Doubleday, Page & Company, 1921.
Many hidden corners and heights in the country round about Nice are hallowed for me by moments that I can never forget. That decisive chapter, entitled “Old and New Tables,” was composed during the arduous ascent from the station to Eza—that wonderful Moorish village in the rocks. During those moments when my creative energy flowed most plentifully, my muscular activity was always greatest. The body is inspired: let us waive the question of “soul”. I might often have been seen dancing in those days, and I could then walk for seven or eight hours on end over the hills without a suggestion of fatigue. I slept well and laughed a good deal—I was perfectly robust and patient.
Friedrich Nietzsche,
Ecce Homo, Leipzig: Insel-Verlag, 1908, translated by Anthony Ludovici, Paul V. Cohn for Project Gutenberg Ebook, 2016.

A colorful mosaic sculpture by Niki de Saint Phalle, representing jazz player Miles Davis, at the garden of Hotel Negresco in Nice. Since the roaring ’20s, the French Coast has been considered a major capital of the jazz scene in Europe.

Flashy sculpture showcased in one of the numerous art galleries gathered in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, a picturesque village north of the Riviera.

The mountainous village of Eze offers breathtaking views to the Mediterranean. There is a wonderful steep trail bearing the name of Eze’s most renowned fan: Friedrich Nietzsche.

In 1948, Nikos Kazantzakis, one of the most influential Greek writers of all time, discovered the French Coast. A restless traveler of the world throughout his life, he found in Antibes a haven of peace. Some of his best-known works were written there, namely “Zorba the Greek,” “Christ Recrucified” and “Captain Michalis”.
chapter 3
Flowers in ecstasy
Nice, September 10, 1935
Nice remains an exquisite haven; every day, I find solace in the choice of this city to cradle my solitude. The season is invigorating, and though I venture out only at night, the nights are enchanting! The squares are imbued with fragrances, and fields of petunias release a sweet scent that wraps around like the allure of an opium den.
This is the time when, in the gardens, the blessed aloes—once condemned by Demeter, your friend—now appear in their death throes, thrusting their unique and towering structures toward the sky!
A time when, on the Promenade, boys confidently parade in their sleeveless knitwear, and pretty girls sway in their “shorts”… Life seems sweet to everyone.
The luxury of lights, palm trees, and lively orchestras on the terraces is not ostentatious because it belongs to all—accessible to both the less fortunate and the wealthier alike. Seated in a marvelous, affordable armchair, digesting a handful of peanuts in front of one of the most beautiful and entertaining shows in the world, I am as content as my neighbor, the billionaire, watching the same parade from the same armchair after dining at Negresco (note: a luxurious historic hotel in Nice).
Roger Martin du Gard,
Correspondance avec André Gide, Vol. 2- 1935-1951, Gallimard, 1968

The Villa Ephrussi de Rothchild counts 11 gardens, including themed ones, a fabulous rose garden, and a garden of Sevres. Most of them have splendid views to the coasts of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat peninsula.

The Baroness Béatrice de Rothschild commissioned numerous rennaissance-styled carvings to place at the gardens of her villa.

The Spanish garden is one of the 9 themed gardens of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothchild.

Bougainvilleas and a string of post-Baroque fountains in the Spanish garden of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothchild in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat peninsula.
chapter 4
Room with a view
Nice, May 23, 1918
I toiled under the full sun, from 10 am until noon, and found myself drained by the intense brightness. I’ve decided to alter my schedule: starting tomorrow, I’ll commence at 6:30 or 7:00. This way, I can enjoy one or two hours of productive work. The olive trees are particularly beautiful in the morning—the midday is splendid, yet intimidating; […] I indulged in a nap beneath an olive tree earlier, and everything I observed was bathed in a poignant sweetness. It seems to be a paradise, one that one should not attempt to dissect even if he is a painter […]. Ah! What a magnificent place Nice is. What a gentle and warm light, despite its brilliance! […]
Henri Matisse
Lettre à Camoin, in Ecrits et propos sur l’art, Hermann, Editeurs des sciences et des arts, 1972.
Henri Matisse to Louis Aragon
Would you like me to share my thoughts on Nice? Why Nice? In my art, I’ve endeavored to create a crystalline universe for the mind. I’ve found the necessary clarity in various places around the world: in New York, in Oceania, in Nice. Had I painted in the North, as I did thirty years ago, my artwork would have taken a different form: mist, grays, color degradations through perspective. In New York, some painters might say, “You can’t paint here, with this zinc sky!” Well, that sky is remarkable! Everything becomes sharp, crystalline, distinct, and limpid. In that sense, Nice has been instrumental for me. One must grasp that what I paint are objects conceived through plastic means. If I close my eyes, I can perceive the objects more vividly than with them open, free from their small irregularities—that’s what I paint…
Louis Aragon on Henri Matisse
Nice, particularly the Ponchettes district where he initially settled, and later the heights of Cimiez, is intricately connected to the glory of Matisse. […] It is Nice that Matisse’s windows open up to, in his paintings. Behind those marvelous open windows, the sky is as blue as the color of Matisse’s eyes behind his glasses. It is a dialogue of mirrors. Nice gazes at its painter and paints in his eyes. […]
There is no city in France, not even Paris, more cosmopolitan than Nice […] People from the four corners of the world come to Nice, bringing the dust of their homeland, their customs, and traditions. In this context, it must be acknowledged that this city provided the painter with another wellspring of inspiration, beyond its sunlight and tropical vegetation:
Nice presented Matisse with a selection of models, various types of women he wouldn’t have encountered elsewhere—a breath of the vast world: the East, Russia, North African countries, and even the South Seas. This reconstruction of the world is evident throughout his work.
Louis Aragon,
Henri Matisse, Roman, Gallimard, 1971.




Ocher-painted houses, a typical architecture style in the picturesque Villefranche-sur-mer village and the surrounding areas, including the eastern French Coast and the Italian Liguria.
The French Riviera for nature aficionados
Places to walk, eat, and sleep surrounded by fabulous landscapes.